Post by crazydima on May 23, 2007 15:23:43 GMT -5
Tovarischi,
There are times when a thread with good intentions goes bad due to folks who seem to be bent on side tracking the issue as well as self destruction.
Sasha tried to get a good set of information out to the masses regarding making your own blanks. Well it appears that some blank vendors don't want folks to know about such things.
Here is the complete thread(in sections) from another forum which was heavily edited after the fact and what remains there does not reflect what really happened.
This is an attempt ot set the record straight for all to see.
Enjoy the reading!
Dima
(never a blank vendor, not into cloak n dagger and not one to take being threatend lightly)
Reloading your own blanks
« Thread Started on Mar 30, 2007, 7:25pm »
________________________________________
Reloading blanks: Part 1
This is meant to show that if a person is so incline that they can load their own blanks. Reasons for loading your own blanks could be to have control over the quality control yourself, save 25% to 40% on blanks, the satisfaction of being able to do it yourself or maybe some other reason. This narrative is not meant as a check list for getting yourself set up to load commercially but for you as an individual. This is also the procedure that works for me in my weapons. I in no way recommend any load or procedure, (disclaimer).
The equipment list is not very long and is not very expensive.
reloading press
shell holders,
powder measure
scale
priming tool
All of the above equipment may be purchased for under $100. The Lee Anniversary Reloading kit from www.midwayusa.com is on sale for $69.99. Lee equipment is entry level reloading equipment and it does get the job done. You can spend more for other brands or for progressive presses but then you get into the hundred or thousands of dollars. I have Dillon progressive presses myself but then I load for a lot of other things.
The dies you need to crimp the case mouth or to form the shoulder can be purchased from
www.ch4d.com/ . They can be expensive at $75 to $120 depending on what you need. The .30 Carbine die set is right at $100 and the . 30 caliber crimp die for .30-06 or .303 is around $80.
Primers may be purchased from sporting good shops for around $22.00 per 1000.
Powder may be purchased at sporting goods stores and varies in price. Bullseye runs about $60 per 4 pound keg. By the pound it is from $15 to $20.
Military .30-06 ($80 per 1000 plus shipping)brass can be used if available. However another die set is needed to remove the primer crimp in the casing before priming. Once fired brass can also be found. All brass needs to be resized in a size die for the appropriate caliber, Lee dies can be purchased at about $20 per set. I generally do not size new brass. www.wideners.com is a good source for brass.
.30 carbine blank brass is harder to come by however www.prvipartizan.com/brass.php is a good source for blank brass($139 per 1000 plus shipping) that needs to be longer than standard brass in order to function through some weapons such as M1 Carbines. The M1 Carbine blank brass also will have to have a shoulder added that is done with the die set from C-H.
.45ACP pistol blanks can be made from .45 Winchester Magnum brass that can be purchased from www.starlinebrass.com/ for $165 per 1000. These can be used in 1911’s that have a blank adapted barrel with no modifications to the slide. Starline also offers .45 ACP brass for subguns. It is longer brass and more expensive. They also require an order of 3500 brass minimum.
Loadings for blanks vary depending on weapon and orifice diameter if it is a semi-auto such as the M1 Rifle or Carbine. Bolt action rifles generally need no blank adapting. The load that works in my M1 Rifle is 12.5 grains of Red Dot smokeless powder. For my Carbine it is 8 grains of Bullseye. Again I do not recommend these loads but mention them as what works in my guns. These loads are similar to some of the vender blanks I have used. My M1 orifice is .174 and the carbine is .159. Again these work in my guns and I do not recommend them for anyone else's use but offer it as a point of information(disclaimer).
.30 Carbine blanks can be loaded for $19.50 per 100 or 19.5 cents each.
.30-06 blanks can be loaded for $15 to $16 per 100.
If you shoot very many blanks in a reenacting season reloading will more than pay for your equipment the first year. If you can save $10 to $20 per 100 you will recoup your investment in the first 1000 to 2000 blanks. If a couple of people go together the savings accumulate faster.
The blank venders out there do a great job and this is in no way an attempt to replace them. However this is information for those that want to make their own blanks can see that it is not rocket science nor does it have to cost an arm and a leg.
Part 2 will deal with the procedure if there is interest. PM me if I should continue with Part 2 in a week or so.
Sasha
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #1 on Apr 3, 2007, 8:35am »
________________________________________
Sasha, with 8 reads on this thread, 4 of them being mine and no e-mail to contact you I would like to make a few notes.
1st) Many of your prices and quantities are outdated.
2) I spent an hour clearing jams out of Mausers this past weekend
due to the obvious use of Lee
dies. While cheap, you get what you pay for and I will not even
have them in my work area.
Pay the extra money for RCBS, Lyman, Dillon, Forester, Hornady
etc. dies . Price is 2-3X more for base models but they are far far
better products and more user friendly.
3) Be careful what your brass pedigree is. One case head
separation in the field and you will know what I am talking about.
Simply buying any once fried brass may get you in trouble. Know
what you are buying.
4) You fail to mention case gauges. Very important for quality and
safety.
5) Please make note that while the equipment you point out will in
fact work for a simple blank. Note the rate at which you will be
producing blanks so the members here will understand how
much time they will have to spend. You should understand that
time is also money to many people and the process rate with this
equipment is quite poor. Buying the equipment only to
find that it is too time consuming would be bad. You should
explain this in more detail. To some that have the time it is not big
deal, others may not like it so much.
Just some notes since I could not contact you in private.
Robb
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #2 on Apr 3, 2007, 10:18am »
________________________________________
Rob,
It is good to hear from someone. Feel free to send a pm or e-mail me at seanthornton13@hotmail.com.
The prices I have are right on the money for central Illinois. What prices are outdated in your view?
I have used RCBS dies, Lee dies, Dillon, Lyman, C-H dies and have not had any trouble with any of them. Lee size dies have always worked for me, some in fact have over 40,000 rounds loaded on. The average reenactor with a bolt gun or M1 will probably not shoot that many. I would be more incline to think that jam of the Mauser was caused by something other than Lee dies, more than likely the loading process or lack of sizing the brass but then I will not speculate since I have not seen the weapon in question. I have fired my blanks in Mausers with no problems.
You are totally right about being careful about the brass you get. that is why inspection is very important.
Inspections is always a key to good quality.
The point of the post was to show that making blanks need not be expensive. Reloading in itself is time consuming and most reenactors do have time in the "off-season" to make blanks. I will also mention that making blanks is not for every one and that is where the blank venders provide a valuable service. But for those that want to and have the time it can save them money. For those that time is "money", they can then make the decision if it is worth spending $35 per 100 blanks plus shipping bringing the cost to about $40 per 100 for .30 carbine blanks or $19.50 for the same blanks if they make them themselves. On my Dillon 650 I can load .30-06 blanks at a rate of 100 in about 10 minutes. On my single stage press loading .30 Carbine blanks I can load 100 in about 40 minutes. I for one would not mind "making or saving" $20 for less than an hours work. The more you load the more you save. Two or three in the same unit could even go together.
There are several blank venders out there selling a quality product and that is great. Reeanctors can also make their own quality blanks. However reloading is not for everyone.
Thanks for the discussion.
Sasha
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #3 on Apr 3, 2007, 8:15pm »
________________________________________
I won't go into the endless debate over Lee Dies. That is like arguing which car is better, Chevy or Ford. I will not use them, but will buy them for parts in custom die forming and toss the die body.
While the basic LEE press will do I would very highly recommend a Rockchucker from RCBS.
It will never wear out in most peoples' lifetime.
It is stronger for reforming cases if needed.
And last, the most important thing that most over look - Die changes
There is a Hornady Lock-N-Load conversion for this press.
What is the Hornady Lock-N-Load? It is the best thing ever for a single stage press.
For those of you who do not know, on single stage presses you have to screw the dies in each time and while the "set' that you put on them is close the next time, it isn't always the same. Then you must play with it to get it set to where you want it again. While not a huge problem, it gets annoying fast. Changing from one die to another can take a minute or more.
The Lock-N-Load system is similar to a locking lug system. It reminds me of a mini battleship gun breach.
You install the bushing on your press, place an insert into it, screw the die down into it, set it where you want and you are done. Taking it out is no more than a flick of the wrist and re-installing the die is nothing more than a flick of the wrist with no change in the "set" (although I still recommend re-checking). Die changes can be done in 10 seconds with far less double checking settings.
Hornady makes a press for the lock-n-load but I do not recommend any Hornady press. I have just sent the third one back (in 20 years) with a long list of why it is crap.
To a novice, the convenience will pay for itself. For advanced loaders it is a huge time saver and you will wonder how you ever lived without it.
They do not make the conversions for the Lee presses but may make them for others, I have not checked.
To me, even trying to load without this product is unthinkable on a single stage.
The Dillon 650 is a good press but it needs many modifications for blanks beyond .30-06 and it not by any means a beginner press. Getting them to work well in the long term requires a bit of modification and honing of parts, something I loathe doing. I really wish that someone would make Lock-n-load conversions for the Dillon presses. The combination would be great.
Midway is a good place. Brownells is also excellent.
I hope this is somewhat useful. remember, consistency is the key to good and safe blanks. I would also recommend a digital scale. I have known many people to have problems with the over simplicity of the Lee scale. Digital scales can be reasonable or ridiculous. There is no reason to pay for a high end model. A good bar scale is nice and I keep and use one but feel like a drug dealer whenever I break it out. Also note that bar scales do not work well unless your work table is very level. Your work area should be level anyway or you will get bad powder throws and on some blanks you will get tips that are off in the angle of your table.
I make this sound scary, but please only take this as notes from someone who loads on a large scale. The little things matter.
Robb
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #4 on Apr 3, 2007, 9:16pm »
Tovarischi,
Over the last 20 some years of re-enacting I have noticed that it is far easier to criticize as opposed to adding information to a topic. Therefore it is nice when folks decide to add to a topic and not try to tear it apart.
Those who know me know that many hours are spent in Dima's Dungeon making all sorts of items for various periods of re-enacting. So I am quite familiar with the value of time. However, too often folks place too much value on "their time" and thus can price themselves out of the market. Granted, the things I make I make for fun not for sale since this is a hobby for me not a business. I don't like to mix business with pleasure. I have a 40+ hour a week job and that is enough.
Anytime a fellow can save some money and still get a safe and quality product then I am in full support of that approach. I am not sure about the rest of you but if I can save $15.00 to $20.00 per 100 rounds of ammo then I am interested in how to go about that too. That is money I can put towards fuel, food, equipment, etc.
As far as the comment that Sasha's prices and quantities are outdated I beg to disagree. You see on occasion I am the one who picks up the various loading components for him since I work near some of the suppliers he uses. Perhaps those who disagree with those prices and quantities would care to provide their data for comparison. the more information the better.
I can vouch for the quality of Sasha's efforts in blank making since over the years I have utilized hundreds if not thousands of rounds he has produced in such calibers as .44(for Henrys), 7mm for my Mauser and 30.06 for my M1 Rifle. His knowledge and attention to detail in making blanks(and live ammo) often leaves me in awe. Those who may think that Sasha is a novice in this area have sadly under estimated his knowledge and ability. Add to this his knowledge of history and his marksmanship and you have a darn good man.
Knowledge is power and if folks are serious about improving this hobby then folks need to step up to the plate and make the knowledge available to the masses so they can make their own decision as to what path to take.
There is a lot of work to do so let us get about the business of improving the hobby while keeping it affordable and fun.
Keep up the good work.
Sincerely,
Dima
(one of the Crazies)
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #5 on Apr 4, 2007, 6:41am »
________________________________________
I had much more to add but I am not going to play this tag team crap.
I am saw this coming and I am not playing this game Dima; and your accusations are out of line.
With this I am done here.
Robb
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #6 on Apr 4, 2007, 8:49am »
________________________________________
Tovarisch Robb,
Tag Team? Crap? Not quite. I would think that the more folks who can add to the mix the better the end result. I am sorry if you feel threatened for that is not my intention. Sometimes email and forum postings can be so impersonal and lack tone and inflection.
I do make sure to keep an eye out to watch the backs of my fellow re-enactors and friends. If that is what you mean by "tag team" then I guess I am guilty. Sasha is making a sincere attempt to help inform the public about how they can save some money by loading their own blanks. Somehow I get the feeling that some folks feel threatened by this effort. They should not feel threatened at all.
Accusations? Huh? What the heck are you talking about? Could you please elaborate? Perhaps you should re-read my post as well as your earlier posts to make sure you have understood the context of my comments.
It was you who stated "Many of your prices and quantities are outdated." Yet you offered no data to compare nor any explanation. I just don't like it when folks fire out "accusations" but then do not back them up. It would be good to find out what prices are for the various regions of the country.
I would hope that you would continue to add to the discussion to help improve the hobby. However, I fear that will not be the case based upon your final words of your last posting.
I would hope that you would reconsider.
Well back to the dungeon.
Sincerely,
Dima
(former WWF member?)
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #7 on Apr 5, 2007, 11:59am »
________________________________________
Ok, I have a few minutes and will play along.
Dima, I do not feel that it is may place to do the work of the person posting to find the right numbers for them but I will give some information. I absolutely do not play the "got a link to prove it" game on the internet.
The $ amounts for the dies from C&H are close but not quite right. They have gone up slightly. They are local to me and I spend A LOT of time there driving them mad for custom die work, if you order $1,000 or more at a time they will give you a small discount.
Second, if you are going to the link provided to PPU blanks you must have a straight line to the Serb president because "it don't work that way". There are 3 places to get the brass and that isn't it. I would also double check your prices on the brass. It is outdated. I do not know what the 1,000 round price is but can assure you it is now different.
Getting your brass at Weidners? (A good place as well)
As of 5 minutes ago. (Same as every other time I checked)
OFB-223-C ONCE - FIRED COMM $59.00 PER 1000 0
OFB-223-M ONCE - FIRED 223 MILITARY $45.00 PER 1000 0
OFB-2232 ONCE - FIRED 223 MIL WCC HEADSTAMP PER 1000 $39.00 OFB-2232 ONCE - FIRED 223 MIL WCC HEADSTAMP $39.00 PER 1000 0
OFB-270-C ONCE FIRED 270 WIN BRASS $20.00 PER 250 ROUNDS 15
OFB-3006 ONCE FIRED 30-06 BRASS $20.00 PER 250 ROUNDS 0
Note that there is very little in stock. Add shipping to these amounts as well when you figure it in. Small amounts of brass become ridiculously high when shipping is factored in.
I am not going to do the work for you, since you are the "buyer" / parner? for / of Sasha you can look the prices up.
It was you who stated "Many of your prices and quantities are outdated." Yet you offered no data to compare nor any explanation. I just don't like it when folks fire out "accusations" but then do not back them up. It would be good to find out what prices are for the various regions of the country.
Use the internet and call around, you will find what you seek.
Back to dies.
If you are loading for a semi-auto or full auto weapon you need what is called a small base die. This goes for live ammo as well.
These can be special ordered from most places for about $50-$90 depending on caliber.
This will keep you from having ejection problems or case head separations. (very bad and will probably end your day at the event unless you have a tool to remove the stuck case)
Even in Mausers the small base die will make a huge difference. Quite often the reason for needing the cleaning rod to pound out your stuck case is from the lack of usage of this die.
Sasha, what do you look for in your once fired brass? Any specifications on type of firearm it was fired from the first time? Please explain more, especially for the full auto guys.
Other items you will need.
Case lube. Dillon works well but I think the Midway house brand works just as well for less. Avoid Hornady - One Shot, RCBS, and Lyman lubes like the plague. Saying they suck is an insult to things that suck.
You will need a case tumbler. The small midway version is a good deal. Everyone makes a similar sized tumbler, you will have to shop around. I use them along with the big Dillon tumblers.
Why do you need to spend another $100 on this item? (That is a guess, I haven't priced them in years)
If your brass is not clean when you run it through the dies it will wear them out quickly. It may also keep them from forming the case properly.
Once you are done making the round, you need to get the lube off your cases.
You can use either corn cob or Walnut media. I use corn cob but either works fine. This can be found anywhere.
A sifter would be nice but is not really needed. Avoid the tumble wheel type as they are more of a pain to use than anything else.
I need to get back to work so I will leave it here for now.
I am not trying to make this sound like a monumental task. Like most other things, it simply requires a fair amount of small items to do properly.
If anyone would like I can come back and post a direct link to ALL items I would suggest for start up. I will not do so unless asked as it will be quite time consuming.
I prefer Midway as they will send you e-mail coupons randomly throughout the year and on your birthday!
Depending on how this goes later I will go into military brass and things that you should consider getting because you may very well need them, especially when starting out.
Robb
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #8 on Apr 5, 2007, 3:29pm »
________________________________________
Robb,
Let me say that it is good to have some constructive information. You have made many good points. However concerning the fact that you think my pricing is a bit off, here is a break down.
.30 Carbine crimp and shoulder die purchased 2 weeks ago $105 from C-H that includes shipping to my front door. Just the crimp die for other calibers is about $25 less.
Concerning .30 Carbine blank brass, well I must know the Serbian President pretty well because, just today I received 2000 of the .30 Carbine blank brass at $139 per 1000 plus shipping which brought the total to $298 or roughly 15 cents each for .30 Carbine blank brass PPU delivered to my front door today.
Primers cost $22.99 as of today at Bullet Express in Springfield,IL.
Bullseye powder was $59.99 for a 4 pound jug and Red Dot was $99.99 for an 8 pound jug. That brings Bullseye to about $15 per pound and $12.5 for Red Dot.
Cost per blank for the .30 Carbine Blank is:
15 Cents per case
2.5 cents roughly per primer
2 cents roughly for the powder
For a total of 19.5 cents each. or $19.50 per 100.
Your prices for the .30-06 brass are correct at 8 cents each plus shipping so you are looking at maybe 10 to 12 cents after shipping. Primers are still the same 2.5 cents each. I use Red Dot at $12.5 per pound if purchased in an 8 pound jug. I get right at 560 rounds loaded per pound for a price of about 2.2 cents per round.
Total cost for a .30-06 blank is about 17 cents per blank or $17 per 100.
Expense to load for the common reenactor is zero. Not many reenactors charge themselves for doing work for the hobby because it is just that, a hobby.
The equipment at around $300 to $350 if one goes the Lee route will be paid for in about the first 2000 to 3000 blanks loaded, especially if loading .30 Carbine. If a couple of reenactors go together and purchase the equipment the pay off is sooner. How many rounds does a reenactor shoot in a season? I will go through 2000 to 3000 in the different time periods I reenact in a season.
I have also said that my posting was not meant to threaten blank vendors with extinction, but just to show that for those that might want to get into another area of the hobby, they could do so and it would not cost an arm and a leg.
What I have posted as prices are as of today April 6, 2007. If you are paying more for your components feel free to e-mail me and I will be glad to give you the names and addresses of my suppliers and introduce you to the Serbian President, who ever he is. Does the name Zivko ring any bells?
Thanks again for your contribution to the posting. I will say this again, Reloading is not for everyone and for those that do not want to take the time because "Time is Money" to them there are several blank vendors that do a fantastic job and offer a great service to the reenacting community. I have used Blank Guys blanks and Dave's from Gopher and they are top quality as I am sure your's are too. All blank vendors are to be given a huge pat on the back even Swanson which I know that you have made comments about his prices being too high. Without blank vendors many WWII reenactments might fall silent, except for those of us that can reload our own.
Let's keep the postings civil and constructive. If you differ with my information, don't say so and then offer no information to prove I was wrong. Let me assure you that all of the prices I have stated are 100% correct as of this writing.
The more information the better as it gives the reenactor a more informed way of making decisions. More than likely 99% of all reenactors buy from vendors now and I really don't look for that to change nor am I trying to change that.
Thanks again for the information. Please feel free to add to the discussion. Education is a powerful tool.
Sasha
PS: This is not nor has it ever been a "Tag Team Match" so please don't turn it into one. Education and information please.
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #9 on Apr 5, 2007, 5:48pm »
________________________________________
Sasha, I am going to send you an e-mail to be sure we are on the same page here and then we can get back to this.
Robb
Stay tuned for the next installment.
There are times when a thread with good intentions goes bad due to folks who seem to be bent on side tracking the issue as well as self destruction.
Sasha tried to get a good set of information out to the masses regarding making your own blanks. Well it appears that some blank vendors don't want folks to know about such things.
Here is the complete thread(in sections) from another forum which was heavily edited after the fact and what remains there does not reflect what really happened.
This is an attempt ot set the record straight for all to see.
Enjoy the reading!
Dima
(never a blank vendor, not into cloak n dagger and not one to take being threatend lightly)
Reloading your own blanks
« Thread Started on Mar 30, 2007, 7:25pm »
________________________________________
Reloading blanks: Part 1
This is meant to show that if a person is so incline that they can load their own blanks. Reasons for loading your own blanks could be to have control over the quality control yourself, save 25% to 40% on blanks, the satisfaction of being able to do it yourself or maybe some other reason. This narrative is not meant as a check list for getting yourself set up to load commercially but for you as an individual. This is also the procedure that works for me in my weapons. I in no way recommend any load or procedure, (disclaimer).
The equipment list is not very long and is not very expensive.
reloading press
shell holders,
powder measure
scale
priming tool
All of the above equipment may be purchased for under $100. The Lee Anniversary Reloading kit from www.midwayusa.com is on sale for $69.99. Lee equipment is entry level reloading equipment and it does get the job done. You can spend more for other brands or for progressive presses but then you get into the hundred or thousands of dollars. I have Dillon progressive presses myself but then I load for a lot of other things.
The dies you need to crimp the case mouth or to form the shoulder can be purchased from
www.ch4d.com/ . They can be expensive at $75 to $120 depending on what you need. The .30 Carbine die set is right at $100 and the . 30 caliber crimp die for .30-06 or .303 is around $80.
Primers may be purchased from sporting good shops for around $22.00 per 1000.
Powder may be purchased at sporting goods stores and varies in price. Bullseye runs about $60 per 4 pound keg. By the pound it is from $15 to $20.
Military .30-06 ($80 per 1000 plus shipping)brass can be used if available. However another die set is needed to remove the primer crimp in the casing before priming. Once fired brass can also be found. All brass needs to be resized in a size die for the appropriate caliber, Lee dies can be purchased at about $20 per set. I generally do not size new brass. www.wideners.com is a good source for brass.
.30 carbine blank brass is harder to come by however www.prvipartizan.com/brass.php is a good source for blank brass($139 per 1000 plus shipping) that needs to be longer than standard brass in order to function through some weapons such as M1 Carbines. The M1 Carbine blank brass also will have to have a shoulder added that is done with the die set from C-H.
.45ACP pistol blanks can be made from .45 Winchester Magnum brass that can be purchased from www.starlinebrass.com/ for $165 per 1000. These can be used in 1911’s that have a blank adapted barrel with no modifications to the slide. Starline also offers .45 ACP brass for subguns. It is longer brass and more expensive. They also require an order of 3500 brass minimum.
Loadings for blanks vary depending on weapon and orifice diameter if it is a semi-auto such as the M1 Rifle or Carbine. Bolt action rifles generally need no blank adapting. The load that works in my M1 Rifle is 12.5 grains of Red Dot smokeless powder. For my Carbine it is 8 grains of Bullseye. Again I do not recommend these loads but mention them as what works in my guns. These loads are similar to some of the vender blanks I have used. My M1 orifice is .174 and the carbine is .159. Again these work in my guns and I do not recommend them for anyone else's use but offer it as a point of information(disclaimer).
.30 Carbine blanks can be loaded for $19.50 per 100 or 19.5 cents each.
.30-06 blanks can be loaded for $15 to $16 per 100.
If you shoot very many blanks in a reenacting season reloading will more than pay for your equipment the first year. If you can save $10 to $20 per 100 you will recoup your investment in the first 1000 to 2000 blanks. If a couple of people go together the savings accumulate faster.
The blank venders out there do a great job and this is in no way an attempt to replace them. However this is information for those that want to make their own blanks can see that it is not rocket science nor does it have to cost an arm and a leg.
Part 2 will deal with the procedure if there is interest. PM me if I should continue with Part 2 in a week or so.
Sasha
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #1 on Apr 3, 2007, 8:35am »
________________________________________
Sasha, with 8 reads on this thread, 4 of them being mine and no e-mail to contact you I would like to make a few notes.
1st) Many of your prices and quantities are outdated.
2) I spent an hour clearing jams out of Mausers this past weekend
due to the obvious use of Lee
dies. While cheap, you get what you pay for and I will not even
have them in my work area.
Pay the extra money for RCBS, Lyman, Dillon, Forester, Hornady
etc. dies . Price is 2-3X more for base models but they are far far
better products and more user friendly.
3) Be careful what your brass pedigree is. One case head
separation in the field and you will know what I am talking about.
Simply buying any once fried brass may get you in trouble. Know
what you are buying.
4) You fail to mention case gauges. Very important for quality and
safety.
5) Please make note that while the equipment you point out will in
fact work for a simple blank. Note the rate at which you will be
producing blanks so the members here will understand how
much time they will have to spend. You should understand that
time is also money to many people and the process rate with this
equipment is quite poor. Buying the equipment only to
find that it is too time consuming would be bad. You should
explain this in more detail. To some that have the time it is not big
deal, others may not like it so much.
Just some notes since I could not contact you in private.
Robb
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #2 on Apr 3, 2007, 10:18am »
________________________________________
Rob,
It is good to hear from someone. Feel free to send a pm or e-mail me at seanthornton13@hotmail.com.
The prices I have are right on the money for central Illinois. What prices are outdated in your view?
I have used RCBS dies, Lee dies, Dillon, Lyman, C-H dies and have not had any trouble with any of them. Lee size dies have always worked for me, some in fact have over 40,000 rounds loaded on. The average reenactor with a bolt gun or M1 will probably not shoot that many. I would be more incline to think that jam of the Mauser was caused by something other than Lee dies, more than likely the loading process or lack of sizing the brass but then I will not speculate since I have not seen the weapon in question. I have fired my blanks in Mausers with no problems.
You are totally right about being careful about the brass you get. that is why inspection is very important.
Inspections is always a key to good quality.
The point of the post was to show that making blanks need not be expensive. Reloading in itself is time consuming and most reenactors do have time in the "off-season" to make blanks. I will also mention that making blanks is not for every one and that is where the blank venders provide a valuable service. But for those that want to and have the time it can save them money. For those that time is "money", they can then make the decision if it is worth spending $35 per 100 blanks plus shipping bringing the cost to about $40 per 100 for .30 carbine blanks or $19.50 for the same blanks if they make them themselves. On my Dillon 650 I can load .30-06 blanks at a rate of 100 in about 10 minutes. On my single stage press loading .30 Carbine blanks I can load 100 in about 40 minutes. I for one would not mind "making or saving" $20 for less than an hours work. The more you load the more you save. Two or three in the same unit could even go together.
There are several blank venders out there selling a quality product and that is great. Reeanctors can also make their own quality blanks. However reloading is not for everyone.
Thanks for the discussion.
Sasha
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #3 on Apr 3, 2007, 8:15pm »
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I won't go into the endless debate over Lee Dies. That is like arguing which car is better, Chevy or Ford. I will not use them, but will buy them for parts in custom die forming and toss the die body.
While the basic LEE press will do I would very highly recommend a Rockchucker from RCBS.
It will never wear out in most peoples' lifetime.
It is stronger for reforming cases if needed.
And last, the most important thing that most over look - Die changes
There is a Hornady Lock-N-Load conversion for this press.
What is the Hornady Lock-N-Load? It is the best thing ever for a single stage press.
For those of you who do not know, on single stage presses you have to screw the dies in each time and while the "set' that you put on them is close the next time, it isn't always the same. Then you must play with it to get it set to where you want it again. While not a huge problem, it gets annoying fast. Changing from one die to another can take a minute or more.
The Lock-N-Load system is similar to a locking lug system. It reminds me of a mini battleship gun breach.
You install the bushing on your press, place an insert into it, screw the die down into it, set it where you want and you are done. Taking it out is no more than a flick of the wrist and re-installing the die is nothing more than a flick of the wrist with no change in the "set" (although I still recommend re-checking). Die changes can be done in 10 seconds with far less double checking settings.
Hornady makes a press for the lock-n-load but I do not recommend any Hornady press. I have just sent the third one back (in 20 years) with a long list of why it is crap.
To a novice, the convenience will pay for itself. For advanced loaders it is a huge time saver and you will wonder how you ever lived without it.
They do not make the conversions for the Lee presses but may make them for others, I have not checked.
To me, even trying to load without this product is unthinkable on a single stage.
The Dillon 650 is a good press but it needs many modifications for blanks beyond .30-06 and it not by any means a beginner press. Getting them to work well in the long term requires a bit of modification and honing of parts, something I loathe doing. I really wish that someone would make Lock-n-load conversions for the Dillon presses. The combination would be great.
Midway is a good place. Brownells is also excellent.
I hope this is somewhat useful. remember, consistency is the key to good and safe blanks. I would also recommend a digital scale. I have known many people to have problems with the over simplicity of the Lee scale. Digital scales can be reasonable or ridiculous. There is no reason to pay for a high end model. A good bar scale is nice and I keep and use one but feel like a drug dealer whenever I break it out. Also note that bar scales do not work well unless your work table is very level. Your work area should be level anyway or you will get bad powder throws and on some blanks you will get tips that are off in the angle of your table.
I make this sound scary, but please only take this as notes from someone who loads on a large scale. The little things matter.
Robb
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #4 on Apr 3, 2007, 9:16pm »
Tovarischi,
Over the last 20 some years of re-enacting I have noticed that it is far easier to criticize as opposed to adding information to a topic. Therefore it is nice when folks decide to add to a topic and not try to tear it apart.
Those who know me know that many hours are spent in Dima's Dungeon making all sorts of items for various periods of re-enacting. So I am quite familiar with the value of time. However, too often folks place too much value on "their time" and thus can price themselves out of the market. Granted, the things I make I make for fun not for sale since this is a hobby for me not a business. I don't like to mix business with pleasure. I have a 40+ hour a week job and that is enough.
Anytime a fellow can save some money and still get a safe and quality product then I am in full support of that approach. I am not sure about the rest of you but if I can save $15.00 to $20.00 per 100 rounds of ammo then I am interested in how to go about that too. That is money I can put towards fuel, food, equipment, etc.
As far as the comment that Sasha's prices and quantities are outdated I beg to disagree. You see on occasion I am the one who picks up the various loading components for him since I work near some of the suppliers he uses. Perhaps those who disagree with those prices and quantities would care to provide their data for comparison. the more information the better.
I can vouch for the quality of Sasha's efforts in blank making since over the years I have utilized hundreds if not thousands of rounds he has produced in such calibers as .44(for Henrys), 7mm for my Mauser and 30.06 for my M1 Rifle. His knowledge and attention to detail in making blanks(and live ammo) often leaves me in awe. Those who may think that Sasha is a novice in this area have sadly under estimated his knowledge and ability. Add to this his knowledge of history and his marksmanship and you have a darn good man.
Knowledge is power and if folks are serious about improving this hobby then folks need to step up to the plate and make the knowledge available to the masses so they can make their own decision as to what path to take.
There is a lot of work to do so let us get about the business of improving the hobby while keeping it affordable and fun.
Keep up the good work.
Sincerely,
Dima
(one of the Crazies)
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #5 on Apr 4, 2007, 6:41am »
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I had much more to add but I am not going to play this tag team crap.
I am saw this coming and I am not playing this game Dima; and your accusations are out of line.
With this I am done here.
Robb
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #6 on Apr 4, 2007, 8:49am »
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Tovarisch Robb,
Tag Team? Crap? Not quite. I would think that the more folks who can add to the mix the better the end result. I am sorry if you feel threatened for that is not my intention. Sometimes email and forum postings can be so impersonal and lack tone and inflection.
I do make sure to keep an eye out to watch the backs of my fellow re-enactors and friends. If that is what you mean by "tag team" then I guess I am guilty. Sasha is making a sincere attempt to help inform the public about how they can save some money by loading their own blanks. Somehow I get the feeling that some folks feel threatened by this effort. They should not feel threatened at all.
Accusations? Huh? What the heck are you talking about? Could you please elaborate? Perhaps you should re-read my post as well as your earlier posts to make sure you have understood the context of my comments.
It was you who stated "Many of your prices and quantities are outdated." Yet you offered no data to compare nor any explanation. I just don't like it when folks fire out "accusations" but then do not back them up. It would be good to find out what prices are for the various regions of the country.
I would hope that you would continue to add to the discussion to help improve the hobby. However, I fear that will not be the case based upon your final words of your last posting.
I would hope that you would reconsider.
Well back to the dungeon.
Sincerely,
Dima
(former WWF member?)
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #7 on Apr 5, 2007, 11:59am »
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Ok, I have a few minutes and will play along.
Dima, I do not feel that it is may place to do the work of the person posting to find the right numbers for them but I will give some information. I absolutely do not play the "got a link to prove it" game on the internet.
The $ amounts for the dies from C&H are close but not quite right. They have gone up slightly. They are local to me and I spend A LOT of time there driving them mad for custom die work, if you order $1,000 or more at a time they will give you a small discount.
Second, if you are going to the link provided to PPU blanks you must have a straight line to the Serb president because "it don't work that way". There are 3 places to get the brass and that isn't it. I would also double check your prices on the brass. It is outdated. I do not know what the 1,000 round price is but can assure you it is now different.
Getting your brass at Weidners? (A good place as well)
As of 5 minutes ago. (Same as every other time I checked)
OFB-223-C ONCE - FIRED COMM $59.00 PER 1000 0
OFB-223-M ONCE - FIRED 223 MILITARY $45.00 PER 1000 0
OFB-2232 ONCE - FIRED 223 MIL WCC HEADSTAMP PER 1000 $39.00 OFB-2232 ONCE - FIRED 223 MIL WCC HEADSTAMP $39.00 PER 1000 0
OFB-270-C ONCE FIRED 270 WIN BRASS $20.00 PER 250 ROUNDS 15
OFB-3006 ONCE FIRED 30-06 BRASS $20.00 PER 250 ROUNDS 0
Note that there is very little in stock. Add shipping to these amounts as well when you figure it in. Small amounts of brass become ridiculously high when shipping is factored in.
I am not going to do the work for you, since you are the "buyer" / parner? for / of Sasha you can look the prices up.
It was you who stated "Many of your prices and quantities are outdated." Yet you offered no data to compare nor any explanation. I just don't like it when folks fire out "accusations" but then do not back them up. It would be good to find out what prices are for the various regions of the country.
Use the internet and call around, you will find what you seek.
Back to dies.
If you are loading for a semi-auto or full auto weapon you need what is called a small base die. This goes for live ammo as well.
These can be special ordered from most places for about $50-$90 depending on caliber.
This will keep you from having ejection problems or case head separations. (very bad and will probably end your day at the event unless you have a tool to remove the stuck case)
Even in Mausers the small base die will make a huge difference. Quite often the reason for needing the cleaning rod to pound out your stuck case is from the lack of usage of this die.
Sasha, what do you look for in your once fired brass? Any specifications on type of firearm it was fired from the first time? Please explain more, especially for the full auto guys.
Other items you will need.
Case lube. Dillon works well but I think the Midway house brand works just as well for less. Avoid Hornady - One Shot, RCBS, and Lyman lubes like the plague. Saying they suck is an insult to things that suck.
You will need a case tumbler. The small midway version is a good deal. Everyone makes a similar sized tumbler, you will have to shop around. I use them along with the big Dillon tumblers.
Why do you need to spend another $100 on this item? (That is a guess, I haven't priced them in years)
If your brass is not clean when you run it through the dies it will wear them out quickly. It may also keep them from forming the case properly.
Once you are done making the round, you need to get the lube off your cases.
You can use either corn cob or Walnut media. I use corn cob but either works fine. This can be found anywhere.
A sifter would be nice but is not really needed. Avoid the tumble wheel type as they are more of a pain to use than anything else.
I need to get back to work so I will leave it here for now.
I am not trying to make this sound like a monumental task. Like most other things, it simply requires a fair amount of small items to do properly.
If anyone would like I can come back and post a direct link to ALL items I would suggest for start up. I will not do so unless asked as it will be quite time consuming.
I prefer Midway as they will send you e-mail coupons randomly throughout the year and on your birthday!
Depending on how this goes later I will go into military brass and things that you should consider getting because you may very well need them, especially when starting out.
Robb
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #8 on Apr 5, 2007, 3:29pm »
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Robb,
Let me say that it is good to have some constructive information. You have made many good points. However concerning the fact that you think my pricing is a bit off, here is a break down.
.30 Carbine crimp and shoulder die purchased 2 weeks ago $105 from C-H that includes shipping to my front door. Just the crimp die for other calibers is about $25 less.
Concerning .30 Carbine blank brass, well I must know the Serbian President pretty well because, just today I received 2000 of the .30 Carbine blank brass at $139 per 1000 plus shipping which brought the total to $298 or roughly 15 cents each for .30 Carbine blank brass PPU delivered to my front door today.
Primers cost $22.99 as of today at Bullet Express in Springfield,IL.
Bullseye powder was $59.99 for a 4 pound jug and Red Dot was $99.99 for an 8 pound jug. That brings Bullseye to about $15 per pound and $12.5 for Red Dot.
Cost per blank for the .30 Carbine Blank is:
15 Cents per case
2.5 cents roughly per primer
2 cents roughly for the powder
For a total of 19.5 cents each. or $19.50 per 100.
Your prices for the .30-06 brass are correct at 8 cents each plus shipping so you are looking at maybe 10 to 12 cents after shipping. Primers are still the same 2.5 cents each. I use Red Dot at $12.5 per pound if purchased in an 8 pound jug. I get right at 560 rounds loaded per pound for a price of about 2.2 cents per round.
Total cost for a .30-06 blank is about 17 cents per blank or $17 per 100.
Expense to load for the common reenactor is zero. Not many reenactors charge themselves for doing work for the hobby because it is just that, a hobby.
The equipment at around $300 to $350 if one goes the Lee route will be paid for in about the first 2000 to 3000 blanks loaded, especially if loading .30 Carbine. If a couple of reenactors go together and purchase the equipment the pay off is sooner. How many rounds does a reenactor shoot in a season? I will go through 2000 to 3000 in the different time periods I reenact in a season.
I have also said that my posting was not meant to threaten blank vendors with extinction, but just to show that for those that might want to get into another area of the hobby, they could do so and it would not cost an arm and a leg.
What I have posted as prices are as of today April 6, 2007. If you are paying more for your components feel free to e-mail me and I will be glad to give you the names and addresses of my suppliers and introduce you to the Serbian President, who ever he is. Does the name Zivko ring any bells?
Thanks again for your contribution to the posting. I will say this again, Reloading is not for everyone and for those that do not want to take the time because "Time is Money" to them there are several blank vendors that do a fantastic job and offer a great service to the reenacting community. I have used Blank Guys blanks and Dave's from Gopher and they are top quality as I am sure your's are too. All blank vendors are to be given a huge pat on the back even Swanson which I know that you have made comments about his prices being too high. Without blank vendors many WWII reenactments might fall silent, except for those of us that can reload our own.
Let's keep the postings civil and constructive. If you differ with my information, don't say so and then offer no information to prove I was wrong. Let me assure you that all of the prices I have stated are 100% correct as of this writing.
The more information the better as it gives the reenactor a more informed way of making decisions. More than likely 99% of all reenactors buy from vendors now and I really don't look for that to change nor am I trying to change that.
Thanks again for the information. Please feel free to add to the discussion. Education is a powerful tool.
Sasha
PS: This is not nor has it ever been a "Tag Team Match" so please don't turn it into one. Education and information please.
Re: Reloading your own blanks
« Reply #9 on Apr 5, 2007, 5:48pm »
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Sasha, I am going to send you an e-mail to be sure we are on the same page here and then we can get back to this.
Robb
Stay tuned for the next installment.