Post by horsesoldier176 on Apr 9, 2010 12:03:11 GMT -5
Well, it is not complex, just very time consuming.
First, you have to remove all the metal from the wood, including the butt plate, recoil bolt, nose cap, and barrel band stays. Then I wash the wood in the hottest water my hands can stand using Murphy's Oil Soap, and a scrubby pad, like what you use for dishes (not a Brillo though). This scrubbing may take two, or even more times to get all the gunk off the wood. This first step is just to get the dirt, oil, grease, sweat, and what not off.
After you are satisfied, I then use denatured alcohol, to remove any remaining shellac. I pour the alcohol into a pad of 000, or 0000 steel wool, and scrub as hard as you can to get through the shellac, and down to the wood. This may also take several times to get all the shellac off. After each scrubbing effort, rinse with very hot water, and wipe with a sponge to clean off any shellac gunk. I allow the stock to dry overnight after each scrubbing session, whether with Murphy's, or alcohol.
Once you are satisfied that you have gotten all the shellac off both the out, and inside of the stock, let the stock dry completely, then sand lightly with a 200-400 grit abrasive paper. Here, your goal is to smooth the surface, not really anything beyond that. This will also open the pores in the wood.
Wipe the stock with a clean, dry, non-linting cloth. Then begin to apply the boiled linseed oil. I like to use old flannel cloth to apply with, as it is soft, but porous, so it holds the oil well.
At first, the wood will drink in the oil quickly, but as the wood becomes impregnated, it will take longer, and longer between applications.
At this point, you need to decide which level of finish you want. The dull finish, can be obtained with only a few coats of oil, but you will have to re-apply more as the oil is absorbed by the wood. The medium, or semi gloss finish takes longer, but requires less follow up maintenance. This level of finish is the most common for weapons with a war time date (1940, and beyond)
The gloss finish, can take quite awhile to achieve. My 1917 model 1891 rifle required 126 coats of oil to get the gloss level I wanted. This high gloss is most common for Tsarist, and pre 1940 Soviet weapons.
Refinishing this way is not a quick, or easy task, but it is well worth the effort if you have the patience for it.
Remember, once you achieve the level of finish you desire, allow the oil to harden up BEFORE you put the weapon back together, otherwise you could find that you "glued" your barrel/receiver group into the stock. The hardening process takes time, as warmth, and humidity will affect the speed at which the oil hardens.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
Boridin
First, you have to remove all the metal from the wood, including the butt plate, recoil bolt, nose cap, and barrel band stays. Then I wash the wood in the hottest water my hands can stand using Murphy's Oil Soap, and a scrubby pad, like what you use for dishes (not a Brillo though). This scrubbing may take two, or even more times to get all the gunk off the wood. This first step is just to get the dirt, oil, grease, sweat, and what not off.
After you are satisfied, I then use denatured alcohol, to remove any remaining shellac. I pour the alcohol into a pad of 000, or 0000 steel wool, and scrub as hard as you can to get through the shellac, and down to the wood. This may also take several times to get all the shellac off. After each scrubbing effort, rinse with very hot water, and wipe with a sponge to clean off any shellac gunk. I allow the stock to dry overnight after each scrubbing session, whether with Murphy's, or alcohol.
Once you are satisfied that you have gotten all the shellac off both the out, and inside of the stock, let the stock dry completely, then sand lightly with a 200-400 grit abrasive paper. Here, your goal is to smooth the surface, not really anything beyond that. This will also open the pores in the wood.
Wipe the stock with a clean, dry, non-linting cloth. Then begin to apply the boiled linseed oil. I like to use old flannel cloth to apply with, as it is soft, but porous, so it holds the oil well.
At first, the wood will drink in the oil quickly, but as the wood becomes impregnated, it will take longer, and longer between applications.
At this point, you need to decide which level of finish you want. The dull finish, can be obtained with only a few coats of oil, but you will have to re-apply more as the oil is absorbed by the wood. The medium, or semi gloss finish takes longer, but requires less follow up maintenance. This level of finish is the most common for weapons with a war time date (1940, and beyond)
The gloss finish, can take quite awhile to achieve. My 1917 model 1891 rifle required 126 coats of oil to get the gloss level I wanted. This high gloss is most common for Tsarist, and pre 1940 Soviet weapons.
Refinishing this way is not a quick, or easy task, but it is well worth the effort if you have the patience for it.
Remember, once you achieve the level of finish you desire, allow the oil to harden up BEFORE you put the weapon back together, otherwise you could find that you "glued" your barrel/receiver group into the stock. The hardening process takes time, as warmth, and humidity will affect the speed at which the oil hardens.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
Boridin